Ode to Newfoundland
"Have you heard the one about the Newfie?" How many times I've heard jokes which start that way. I've never given much thought to the jokes other than, they were funny...or not. I've never given much thought to the place, or even the people for that matter. I have known a number of Newfies throughout my life and have liked everyone of them because they seemed so much like me, always up, you know optimistic "Life is what ye make it, by!" and that sort of thing. I still never gave much thought to where that optimism or their vibrancy came from.
Then I went to Newfoundland! What an experience that was! First there was the the physical experience of just being on "the Rock" Standing on that land that was, at first appearence, barren and forsaken. The day I arrived in Port Aux Basques was overcast and damp and cold, but I remember before the ferry pulled into the dock, while we were still a ways off from the land, seeing her for the first time as though I were the first to reach her shores. As though my footstep would be the first impression made on this place. This land was not an easy place to live. It was hard and cold and damp. These were my first thoughts. My next thought was; "How have these people survived on this island of rock, in the middle of the north Atlantic for so long?". This question would soon be answered, though.
I drove from Port Aux Basques to St. Johns in about 10 hours and with each minute, hour and mile flowing behind me I became a little more appreciative of the unique beauty of this place and a little more understanding of why someone would want to live here.
After a nights rest I was anxious to go out and mingle with the natives. I wanted to be "Screeched in and kiss the codfish" and all that. I didn't exactly understand these things but I had heard from some of my Newfie pals back on the mainland that it was customary for non Newfies to partake of the rocks native alcoholic beverage while seducing a dead cod. I suppose you would need a heck of a sense of humour to come up with an initiation like that. I guess you'd need an even greater sense of humour to partake!
Well, I never did either of these things while there, but I did do plenty of mingling with the natives over the 2 weeks I was in this magnificent province. In each city, town or village I traveled through I was overwhelmed by the friendliness and welcome with which I was greeted. I came to, not just understand, but also appreciate why these people of the rock chose to remain in this far off land which, to some, could be construed as (I said earlier) barren and forsaken.
You see it was never really about the land. The secret to their survival has always been within them. As Island historian and writer Doug Cole, explained to me " We live on an island in the middle of the ocean and if we don't look out for one another, who will?" And in their looking out for each other they also look into each other and see themselves there. They see their past and they see their future in each other. this hard place has a heart of gold, a soft and precious heart that is always welcoming and willing to share with someone who has a need.
I will always think fondly of this place, This hard land with the soft heart. And when I think of this place, I will smile and know that if ever I find myself on her shores again, there will be someone smiling back at me.
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